Points of Interest, Part I: Sendai Castle

It’s been quite a while since I’ve updated this, but now I have even more to tell! And, currently being in the middle of a 17 hour transit from Kanazawa to Sendai (story for later!), I should have all the time I need to tell it.  

As I said in my last entry, the day after the previous night’s nomikai with the Sendai staff ended up being a day off for everyone in the office. After waking up at a comfortable hour, I took the opportunity to put my bike to good use by exploring the outskirts of Sendai. After taking a look at the area around Okayama-san’s apartment from the satellite-eye view Google maps affords, I decided to head to a wooded area about half a mile west outside of the city, where there appeared to be a few shrines and temples off the beaten path.  Despite this vague semblance of a plan, really I had no particular destination in mind; my only goal was to relax on my day off with a nice ramble.

Shortly after crossing a river and finding myself in sparser surroundings, I stumbled upon a detailed map with information on points of interest in the area, which including directions to the remains of Sendai Castle　(仙台城). Perched on a large hill just outside the city, atop the ruins seemed to be the perfect spot to get a good view of Sendai, and as a perk would provide a perfect “detour” for my aimless adventure. 

Map with points of interest marked.[click to enlarge]

However, upon arriving at the approach, I was greeted by a formidable “do not enter” sign and a placard which explained that the castle was closed because a small rockslide spurred by the earthquake had obstructed part of the path. From the pictures the damage didn’t look too bad at all, and the cordon was at an easily hop-able height, but I saw a few construction workers pass by, and I decided that trespassing might not be the best idea. I tried without success to find another way in, but all official roads were blocked, and my shorts and Tevas made the prospect of bushwhacking a trail an unattractive option.

:[ [click to enlarge]

For the remainder of the afternoon, I decided to opt for biking along the river. I happened across a large shrine, but also owing to the earthquake only a small section of it was open. Despite this, I ended up forking over the 400 yen to take a look, and ended up being pleasantly surprised – most shrines in Japan maintain a “natural look” with largely unpainted wooden buildings and carvings, but this site was both a shrine and a tomb dedicated to some ancient noble, and so it was regally fettered to match.

 

Shrine/Tomb entrance. [click to enlarge]

closeup on a corner joist. [click to enlarge]

Noteworthy things lacking for the rest of the day, it wasn’t until night came that I decided to go through with a plot I concocted after my defeat earlier in the day. Sometime after midnight, I set out on my bike again, rudder angled for Sendai Castle. Arriving once again t the path leading upwards, an effortless jump put me on the other side of the hazard tape. I was slightly on edge, but the low murmur of the forest soothed my nerves.  Finally having escaped the light and smog of the city, looking up brought me an unexpected surprise; for the first time since arriving in Japan, I could see the stars.

I only had to walk for about 15 minutes before I arrived at the massive bulwark of the castle foundation. There were small shrines lining the walkway to the top of the plateau, but the castle itself had disappeared long ago, leaving behind a perfect viewing platform of all of Sendai.

For a long time I watched the city gleaming motionlessly in the dark, until I noticed a slight stir among a group tall buildings – a lone glass elevator had begun its descent over over the obsidian façade of a distant skyscraper, and In a city of over one million people, my attention was drawn to a single person. My heart beat heavily in my chest, and I suddenly felt as if the city had turned its gaze on me. Standing face to face, the language of my feeble inner monologue slipped into the darkness behind me, and I was left, within and without, standing in absolute silence.